Wrinkles are a completely normal part of aging. In fact, some may argue that wrinkles are a privilege — a sign of adventure and a life fully lived. Others are less enthusiastic and would prefer to delay the onset of aging.
Either way, it is possible to protect your skin’s health and, to an extent, prevent wrinkles. But it’s best to approach skin care holistically, rather than from a fear of growing older.
Below, Mayo Clinic expert and dermatologist Elika Hoss, M.D., weighs in on skin care and the best strategies to prevent wrinkles.
What causes wrinkles?
Wrinkles happen as part of the natural aging process, says Dr. Hoss.
“As we age, we see a decrease in the building blocks of the skin such as collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. This makes the skin thinner, drier and less elastic over time, leading to the appearance of wrinkles, lines and creases.”
Static wrinkles — consistent lines on the face like a forehead crease — are caused by muscle movement, as well as a decrease in elasticity and collagen in the skin.
Dynamic wrinkles, which appear only when you move your face, are primarily caused by muscle movement. Habitual facial expressions — like when you smile with a friend, furrow your brow in concentration or squint to read a street sign — can create lines. Over time, dynamic wrinkles become static wrinkles — meaning they’re visible at rest — and look deeper with movement.
Aside from simply getting older, there are a number of factors that can contribute to both kinds of wrinkles — some of which you can control and some of which you can’t. Genetics can influence how and when you get wrinkles, as can certain environmental exposures. Common air pollutants harm the skin and play a part in wrinkle formation. Likewise, research has shown that smoking and UV exposure also contribute to premature aging and wrinkles.
Finally, Dr. Hoss says skin tone and melanin play a part in the onset of wrinkles.
“While light-skinned patients often see wrinkles and lines in their late 20s or early 30s, these can be seen almost a decade later in patients with darker skin.”
The basics of wrinkle prevention
The most important strategy for wrinkle prevention is sun protection, says Dr. Hoss.
“It is never too early to think about skin health. Good skin care should start in childhood with sunscreen use and sun protective measures such as seeking shade and wearing a hat.”
As a rule of thumb, Dr. Hoss recommends that people of all ages wear broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen daily, rain or shine. You also should consider protective clothing like wide-brimmed hats and long sleeves when spending time outdoors.
For the face, Dr. Hoss recommends mineral sunscreens (like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) as they are less likely to cause irritation or burning of the eyes and skin. The amount of sunscreen you use also matters in preventing skin damage — apply an entire nickel-sized amount to the face and reapply every two hours when outdoors.
“As a cosmetic dermatologist, I tell patients that sunscreen is the number 1, 2 and 3 anti-aging cream!” says Dr. Hoss.
Next, consider lifestyle factors that can contribute to wrinkles, like quitting smoking, limiting alcohol and eating a healthy diet rich in fruits, vegetables and lean proteins. Smoking, in particular, has dual aging effects. Not only does smoking harm collagen production, Dr. Hoss says the repetitive muscle movement can cause lip lines or “smoker’s lines” around the mouth.
Creating a skincare routine
In addition to sun protection, Dr. Hoss says a good skincare routine can help prevent wrinkles. There are a ton of products out there and it can be overwhelming to start a multistep skin care routine from scratch, so focus on small, consistent steps. For some people, they’re more likely to stick to a routine that is motivation-based (taking care of your skin health, setting aside time for pampering, etc.) than shame-based (feeling frustrated about your looks or fearful of aging).
In the morning, Dr. Hoss recommends starting with a topical antioxidant such as a vitamin C serum. Antioxidant products help fight damage from UV rays, blue light and pollution, says Dr. Hoss.
“They’ve also been shown to improve skin tone, brightness and collagen production. But we do not routinely recommend vitamin supplements by mouth for anti-aging or anti-wrinkle benefits.”
Then, apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen to your face, neck and chest.
At night, Dr. Hoss recommends a three-step routine:
- Start with a gentle cleanser in the evening to remove dirt, debris and makeup from the day.
- Next, apply an anti-aging product such as a retinol, retinoid or peptide cream. Both retinol and retinoid are forms of vitamin A, though retinoid is typically only available through prescription. With consistent use, retinol/retinoid can reduce fine lines, improve pigmentation and stimulate collagen production. At first, it’s possible that retinol/retinoid will make your skin dry, red or generally more sensitive. After about 4 to 6 weeks of use, the skin typically adapts and improves overall. Be sure to onlyuse these products at night or as instructed, as their beneficial properties can be made inactive by sunlight. Retinoids can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is crucial to use daily sunscreen and practice sun protective measures.
- Finally, apply a moisturizer. This will help to hydrate your skin, maintain the skin barrier, and prevent dryness and irritation, says Dr. Hoss. Moisturizers also can temporarily plump the skin, and thus improve lines and creases.
Can Botox prevent wrinkles?
Onabotulinum toxin A, commonly known by the brand name Botox, Dysport or Xeomin, can treat and may help prevent wrinkles, according to Dr. Hoss.
“Since repeated muscle movement can lead to static wrinkles, then paralyzing this movement with a neuromodulator such as botulinum toxin prevents the formation of wrinkles in areas of facial movement.”
Some people opt for smaller doses of Botox to soften muscle movement for a more natural appearance, sometimes referred to as baby Botox.
“This is a reasonable approach for patients who raise their brows often, or frown often, and are starting to see a line forming between their brows, or across their foreheads,” says Dr. Hoss. “If a neuromodulator is done properly, with appropriate injection points, dosages and treatment intervals, then the risks are quite minimal.”
Risks of Botox injections include bruising, asymmetry of facial features, unnatural results or in rare cases, allergic reaction, cautions Dr. Hoss. Rarely, the neuromodulator can impact nerve and muscle groups or cause side effects like vision problems, and difficulty talking, swallowing or breathing.
“The benefit [of neuromodulators] is that you can prevent deep wrinkles that end up being much more difficult, if not impossible, to treat later,” says Dr. Hoss.
Botox results tend to last 3 to 4 months per treatment.
There are other treatments to consider as well, including laser resurfacing, chemical peels, dermabrasion and fillers — all of which can help reduce wrinkles and rejuvenate skin. To know what treatment suits you and your skin best, work with your healthcare team to discuss your options.
Relevant reading
Heal Your Gut, Save Your Brain
NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER Cognitive decline is not your destiny. You can improve your brain function through small steps taken every day. Heal Your Gut, Save Your Brain, by gastroenterologist and health advocate Dr. Partha Nandi, highlights the latest research on the gut-brain connection and gives you a clear protocol…
